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Europe is still a divided continent. In the place of a fallen Berlin wall, there is a chasm between the East and the West. Are these differences a communist legacy, or do they run even deeper? What divides us today? To say simply that it is the understanding of the past, or a different concept of time, is not enough. But a visitor to this part of the world will soon discover that we, the Eastern Europeans, live in another time zone. We live in the twentieth century, but at the same time we inhabit a past full of myths and fairy tales, of blood and national belonging, and the fact that most people are lying and cheating or that they have the habit of blaming others for every failure...' An intimate tour of life on the streets of Budapest, Tirana, Warsaw and Zagreb, as those cities continue to acclimatise to the post-Communist thaw, Café Europa does not provide easy solutions or furnish political pallatives. Rather as a Croatian with a viewpoint of ever-widening relevance, the value of Slavenka Drakulic's wry and humane observations lie in the emotional force of their honesty and the clarity of their insight.....… (more)
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Ever read one of those books that just totally wows you? Well this was it for me, it really opened my eyes.
Spoilers below, highlight to read:
The author's intro really sets out her
A clear example of this was the stick/horse allusion. "If you asked a child riding a broomstick what it was doing, the child would answer, without hesitation: 'I am riding a horse.' ... And no one has yet told the infant Eastern Europe that a wooden stick is not a horse." It's almost as if by putting western names on their stores and businesses, they hoped to be Western but weren't aware that it was far more complicated then that. The same applies to Japan, and one wonders even today if that message has been received.
Part of what intrigued me about this book was that I know/knew very little about Yugoslavia. I was just old enough to pay attention to goings-on in the world when communism collapsed and Yugoslavia eroded into the political mess that it still is today. The only contest I have for the former Yugoslavia is Monica Seles, the Balkans that I remember are Serbia, Bosnia & Herzegovina, Croatia, etc. It was interesting to learn that Yugoslavians enjoyed such relative freedom.
I found the author's stories about the high cost of living in Croatia to be amazing. Eastern Europe is perceived as being cheap, it's almost impossible to imagine the idea of shopping in Vienna for 'bargains' especially in today's strong Euro.
In the case of the Romanians and Serbs, electing leaders whose ideologies so closely resembled that of the communist leaders, it almost helps to explain the current state of Iraq. The Iraqis aren't sure what they want, and it's shown in violence. Contrary to popular belief, the US troops represent instability rather than the intended stabiliy.
I knew Ceaucescu had been shot along with his wife, but I had no idea that Tito's wife JOvanka was still alive and living in Belgrade. Why was she allowed to live? What would the region have looked like if Tito hadn't broken with Stalin? PErhaps even better, why did Moscow allow it while at the same time feel threatened by the Prague Spring? I think it's interesting to wonder whether Tito would have been executed like Ceaucescu if he'd not died of his own health issues.
Although these stories were written 10+ years ago, a lot of them applied to Prague and its current standing vis a vis its neighbours in Europe. It's been said that Vienna is Prague in 20 years, but Prague is the Prague of 1900 in that its finally regained its former standing in the world.
In light of the changes I've seen in Prague in the last four years and the changes in the region as a whole, this was an excellent book to read. It will be interesting to see when and if the former Soviet countries do indeed become "European." Speaking now, I think it extends far beyond EU membership, as there are still differences between member states ex: Austria:Czech Republic: Poland.
While she writes with humor and frankness, the book fell short of my expectations. I found her analysis too simplistic, and her reflections lacking depth. I thought it strange that she could make sweeping conclusions about these societies, including her own, based on a few random incidents and experiences. These societies were undergoing transformation (the book was published in 1999), and unlearning the habits of decades of closed rule take time, and expectedly not without pain. It doesn't mean either that adopting "capitalist" behaviour and customs is always right or the superior path, although this is what she seems to underline throughout.
She is a journalist, so perhaps I was looking for more journalistic type of writing, with critical analysis (not mere criticisms, as she did here) and more insightful views, which were not evident in this book.
I read this book while on holiday in modern day Croatia, chosen because the author is Croatian (although she now lives in Vienna with her Swedish husband).
It is basically a collection of essays which appear to be strangely frozen in time between the fall of Communism and the
Writing this review six months later, several things have stuck with me about the book.
Firstly, the fact that Communism did work for many people and for those above a certain age, the difficulties in adjusting to the changes were huge, both culturally and financially. No longer were they in a job for life, nor were they supported into their old age - and many did not have sufficient time ahead to earn enough for their retirement.
At the time that the book was written (1996-1999) Draculic seemed unable to envision a time when Croatia might become in any way truly Western. The title refers to the cafes that sprung up in Eastern Europe, pertaining to be like their Western counterparts but falling well short of the mark, but the Croatia that I visited in 2010 seemed to be making its mark in modern Europe. I saw few old communist style vehicles, for example, and even though I was searching for signs of the old regime, there seemed little of it left.
One or two anecdotes also stuck with me, particularly the problem of smuggling items such as vacuum cleaners across the border from Austia bacause they were either too expensive or not available back home. One vacuum cleaner absorbed the entire allowance, and that was even with a false receipt for its cost written by the seller.
I don't think I would have got as much out of the book had I read it at a different time and place but it was fascinating to realise how much the country had changed in such a relatively short space of time.
For a book of barely two hundred pages, there are twenty-five essays, so they are short and accessible, almost made for picking up and putting down at leisure. In fact, the one major criticisms I have of the book is that the essays are a little too short, so much that it sometimes inhibits Drakulic’s ability to fully flesh out the ideas at hand. The essay topics are varied, but tend to revolve around a constellation of relatively abiding concerns: two of these are the consumerism of post-liberalized, post-communist Eastern Europe and its growing homogeneity, and shifting political attitudes.
Drakulic is deeply ambivalent about Europe being taken over by the cultural accoutrements – really only simulacra – of Western Europe, symbolized by the ubiquitous “Café Europa,” the iconic Viennese coffee shop, which has apparently cropped up all over the place. Even the name “Europe” has come to signify a kind of sybaritic luxury. A cinema in Drakulic’s home city of Zagreb changed its name from “The Balkan” to “Cinema Europa,” indicative of a willed escape from primitivism, war, and everything non-European. One of the most interesting aspects of the book is how Drakulic looks at Europe as a name “loaded with the complexity of positive values” (p. 11). Which begs the question: is Europe one thing any longer, or merely what we make of it for ourselves?
The highlights of the collection, not surprisingly, are the pieces in which Drakulic gives herself the appropriate space to think through an issue. Here are a few of my favorites, including a short description of each. “The Trouble with Sales” explores some patterns – ones that Drakulic herself admits are paradoxes – about shopping and consumerism in an age of the new economic logic of capitalism, especially her old habit of seeking out sales – a habit which she can’t seem to finally kick. “Invisible Walls Between Us” looks at the bizarre and discriminatory travel strictures imposed on Easterners, who are often looked down upon as suspicious foreigners while traveling in Western Europe. “A King for the Balkans” is an insightful look at the political psychology in Yugoslavia as Prince Alexander Karadjordjevic makes his first post-exilic visit to an unusually warm reception given the country’s history under previous monarchy.