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Business. Cooking & Food. History. Nonfiction. In 1848, the British East India Company, having lost its monopoly on the tea trade, engaged Robert Fortune, a Scottish gardener, botanist, and plant hunter, to make a clandestine trip into the interior of China-territory forbidden to foreigners-to steal the closely guarded secrets of tea horticulture and manufacturing. For All the Tea in China is the remarkable account of Fortune's journeys into China-a thrilling narrative that combines history, geography, botany, natural science, and old-fashioned adventure. Disguised in Mandarin robes, Fortune ventured deep into the country, confronting pirates, hostile climate, and his own untrustworthy men as he made his way to the epicenter of tea production, the remote Wu Yi Shan hills. One of the most daring acts of corporate espionage in history, Fortune's pursuit of China's ancient secret makes for a classic nineteenth-century adventure tale, one in which the fate of empires hinges on the feats of one extraordinary man.… (more)
User reviews
For such a slim volume, this book packs a great deal of fascinating information. There's the journeys of Robert Fortune itself and his adventures among the Chinese during the mid 1800s, how he disguised himself as a mandarin to avoid hostilities, his brush with pirates in the high seas, and his experiments which improved the success rate in transporting delicate plants and seeds from China to India and back to England. In addition to this, bearing in mind the focus of this book being tea, we are also treated to an insight into the secrets of tea growing and harvesting, which had remained closely guarded secrets by the Chinese, until they were uncovered by Robert Fortune and smuggled out of China. We're even given tips to the proper way to brew a good pot of tea.
Lest you think this is nothing but a horticultural lesson, Ms Rose, includes relevant historical notes on the Taiping Revolution, the Opium Wars, the beginnings of the Indian movement towards independence, Britain's economic and industrial growth and the smuggling of Chinese coolies out of China to other parts of the world. She explains not only what these events are, but what caused them and why they were important events.
Robert Fortune's notes on the Chinese secrets of tea-growing and harvesting, in addition to his hiring and transporting Chinese tea experts to India, can be considered industrial espionage, for surely if he had been discovered by the Chinese government, he would have been arrested and possibly executed.
Fascinating read.
Most importantly, I was left puzzling over what appeared to be big gaps between the jacket description, which promised a tale of adventure as Robert Fortune, disguised in Mandarin robes, roamed the Chinese mountains in search of the tea plants, and the reality of the book. For one thing, Fortune's Chinese expeditions make up perhaps only a third of what is already a rather slender book (my advance copy clocks in at 250 pages or so.) And there are big gaps here. Fortune disguised himself as a Mandarin, yet he didn't speak fluent Chinese of any kind. Did no officials suspect him? Was there a tacit conspiracy to just wink at his endeavors? Had other plant-hunters in China run afoul of officialdom? With most books of this kind that I read I am delighted at new discoveries; this time, I found myself jotting down a list of questions about things like this which piqued my curiosity but which were left unanswered. In all, Fortune seems to have had a relatively straightforward time of things, given the difficulties of traveling in an unknown country with no transportation infrastructure.
That being the case, I was glad to have the additional material in this book, which roams from the new tea plantation in the Indian Himalayas to Calcutta; from discussion of new shipping technologies for fragile plant life to details on how to brew a proper cup of tea. But the jumps back and forth in detail -- this book covers everything from the concept of plant exchanges as part of British colonial trade to the Indian Mutiny -- and felt overly choppy. Meanwhile, details of life in the China through which Fortune was passing remain skimpy. Did he see or know of foreigners who had transgressed the emperor's rules about where they could live? Did he worry about this? Did he encounter any Taiping rebels; what did he think about a Hakka would-be scholar calling himself the second son of God and Jesus's younger brother? Did he try to get to some of the premier tea gardens around Hangzhou when his annoying servants directed his sedan chair through the city instead of around it? I'm going to have to turn to Fortune's own chronicles to find out.
It's a mildly interesting survey of what was probably a fascinating experience. It will probably be somewhat interesting to the casual reader, but there are other (and better) books about botanic adventuring out there, among them Flower Hunters by Mary Gribbin; Jennifer Potter's Strange Blooms: The Curious Lives and Adventures of the John Tradescants or The Brother Gardeners: Botany, Empire and the Birth of an Obsession by Andreas Wulf. If you're interested in the general issue of adventurous plant hunters or botany, try these (or Anna Pavord's new book, Searching for Order: The History of the Alchemists, Herbalists and Philosophers Who Unlocked the Secrets of the Plant World. (She wrote a very popular book about the tulip and tulip mania a while back.) This book had too many gaps for me to call it a good and compelling account of the times and the events, even though it has its moments.
A big weakness is the absence of any kind of footnotes. These didn't have to be numbered footnotes and could, instead, have been end-notes that don't interrupt the flow of such popular and non-scholarly histories. But I lost track of the number of times I went to look for the source of a particular anecdote or piece of information, before recalling that there are no detailed footnotes. That would have been less of a problem if the narrative had been less choppy and thus engrossed me more, or if there had been fewer gaps in the narrative.
Recommended to general readers with modest expectations; this is interesting, but not a dramatic or exciting read.
Under the guidance of Joseph Banks, who travelled as a botanist attached to James Cook's exploratory surveys, the Royal Society worked to turn Kew gardens into the world's largest repository of botanical specimens and develop knowledge and use this knowledge to transplant crops and live-stock throughout the British Empire to the best agricultural advatntage, policies and practice which were continued long after his death. While many people have heard of the Mutiny of the Bounty, few know that the purpose of the voyage of the Bounty was to sail to Tahiti to take a load of potted breadfruit trees on board and transport these trees across the globe to the Caribbean to transplant this crop in an attempt to grow breadfruit there as a suitable source of food for slaves. The transplatation of crops and live-stock, such as the introduction of sheep to Australia, helped Britain to make its colonies more productive and profitable.
One of the most prized crops, which Britain imported from China, was tea. The high price of tea, the high demand for it in Britain and the facts that China considered itself self-sufficient, meaning it was glad to export but refused to import any good from Britain, led to a serious trade deficit, which threatened to bankrupt the British. Attempts by the British to offset the import of tea by an export of opium, creating a growing demand for the drug by poisoning the Chinese population met with obvious resistance, resulting in the Opium Wars with China, threatened the supply of tea, so that the British sought ways to grow tea in its colonies, specifically in India.
While in the eighteenth century, the job of botanist and explorer was the affair of aristocratic young men, by the nineteeth century the (natural) sciences, particularly in connection with exploration, offered good opportunities to young men of humbler origins. Low salaries could be comfortable supplemented with profitable undertakings such as the collection and sale of (plant) speciments, china and chinoiseries and the writing of books about their travels.
Robert Fortune (1812 – 1880) was a botanist, who travelled to the Far East several times, visiting Japan, mainland China, Taiwan and India. He discovered several plant species, some of which are named after him, and introduced hundreds of plants, including different varieties of roses to British gardens. Fortune was instrumental in the compilation of knowledge of growing and processing tea, rice and silk. Between 1847 and 1863 he published six books about his travels of exploration. Apart from his published work, very little is known about Robert Fortune, as his wife is reported to have destroyed his personal effects, diaries, journals and correspondence after his death.
For all the tea in China. How England stole the world's favorite drink and changed history is largely based on the books by Robert Fortune as very little other authentic source material is available. However, Sarah Rose's book is not an academic publication, so no footnotes are used, and it is hard to know where the author took her information, or whether in fact the book is perhaps a popularized account of a compilation of works by Robert Fortune. It very much seems to be.
It is clear that Sarah Rose writes well, and can tell a story, but perhaps she is not the right person to tell this story. Her book is mainly an adventure story, with very little or no historical accuracy. Ms Rose either lacks the critical faculty or decided to switch it off in order to twist history to its most advantageous way and sacrifice truth and accuracy on the altar of a commercial success. The main premise of her book is that Fortune was commissioned to steal the tea plant from China, and be the first to do so, thereby effectively breaking China's tea monopoly. However, China had no monopoly on tea, and tea specimens, i.e. living plants, had already been collected by British botanical gardens in Sri Lanka more than two decades before Fortune's travels.
Fortune's travels into the interior of China took place between 1845 and 1860, at a time of hightened agression against foreign imperialists. Britain fought two Opium Wars with China in the 1840s and 1860, so a certain degree of discretion was perhaps necessary. However, whether Robert Fortune's disguise was customary and 'normal' or necessitated by the secrecy of his mission is not clear. It is all rather unlikely that Fortune's several months long expeditions, carrying glass cases with plant specimens went truly unnoticed, as the author claims.
The Introduction of the book is embarrassingly nationalistic, displaying the spirit of British colonialism favourably and without any sense of shame. Descriptions of interaction with the Chinese are enlivened by the use of the British-Chinese pidgin, e.g. chop-chop meaning "quick", but other usage of Chinese pinyin is at times painfully incorrect, as e.g. zou means "go", but would never be used by Chinese people in that way, as the Chinese imperative form would include the particle "ba" as in zou ba, which would then mean "let's go", but the author should have used (kuai) Pao in that particular context to mean "let's get out of here!".
There are various other inconsistencies and sometimes the author creates confusion. The use of the word "Bohea" as a geographical designation or a more generic term for black tea is not always clear. Rose describes how Robert Fortune discovered that green tea and black tea both come from the same plant, nonetheless in the later part of the book the author keeps confusing readers by relating Fortune's mission to collect both seeds of green tea plants and black tea plants. Although the book includes descriptions of tea utensils and ways of making tea, while referring to different types of tea, the author never explains the differences between for example Da Hong Pao tea and other varieties.
In the final chapters, the author describes the success of British tea grown in India and attributing this success to the endeavors of Robert Fortune. This is historically incorrect as through trial and error, the Indian tea trade is largely based on cultivars which were indigenous to the Indian Himalayas. According to the Encyclopædia Britannica "At first they used seeds from China, but later seeds from the clonal Assam plant were used."
For all the tea in China remains an interesting read as an adventure story, at most.
A few reviews I've seen complained of a lack of detail, particularly in terms of Fortune's actual adventures in China, his encounters with the locals and with officialdom, and his views on all he encountered; the problem is, as far as I can see, that there isn't really much Rose could add. The only record of what Fortune did or said is his own book on his travels, since all his papers were destroyed after his death, and it seems to me there is little point Rose simply repeating his words, padding out a perfectly-sized book, when she's already directed us to the source.
I was very impressed with the book, and sad to see it's her only one so far.
The story of the East India Company and how
Con: I spent the entire time I was reading the book wishing I had scones and clotted cream at hand.
Serious historians will no doubt