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Investigates colossal ship-swallowing rogue waves and the surfers who seek them out. For centuries, mariners have spun tales of gargantuan waves, 100 feet high or taller. Until recently scientists dismissed these stories; waves that high would seem to violate the laws of physics. But in the past few decades, as a number of ships have vanished and new evidence has emerged, oceanographers realized something was brewing in the planet's waters. They found their proof in February 2000, when a British research vessel was trapped in a vortex of impossibly mammoth waves in the North Sea, including several approaching 100 feet. Scientists scramble to understand this phenomenon. Yet extreme surfers fly around the world trying to ride the ocean's ultimate challenges. The sport's pioneer, Laird Hamilton, with a group of friends in Hawaii, figured out how to board waves of 70 and 80 feet. The exploits of Hamilton and his fellow surfers are juxtaposed against scientists' urgent efforts to understand the destructive powers of waves, from the tsunami that wiped out 250,000 people in the Pacific in 2004 to the 1,740 foot wave that recently leveled part of the Alaskan coast. The book portrays human beings confronting nature at its most ferocious. -- Publisher info.… (more)
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I would say that the bulk of this story
I was also interested to read of Don King, a cinematographer from Oahu who not only films Hamilton and his exploits, but is famous for filming water scenes in some well known motion pictures, such as Castaway ( starring Tom Hanks).
King began his career as a daring fifteen year old and went on to pioneer new ways to film from inside monster waves.
One of the most shocking recountings was the story of The cruise ship Oceanos.
All 571 of the Oceanos passengers and crew evacuated in a storm on August 4, 1991. A monster wave crashed into the hull of the Oceanos, flooding the ship, including the engine room and caused it to lose power. The ships captaon, Yiannis Avranas elbowed aside passenger, including an injured elderly woman to ensure that he would be one of the first on a rescue helicopter. The rest of the crew followed their captains lead, and took the best and sturdiest of the lifeboats, and fled. Their actions left the rescue efforts of the passengers to the band, and other entertainers. The cruise director was the one to radio for help.
No one died. The captain was later charged with negligence, but tried to defend his actions.
If you are an avid surfer, you will love this book. If you are interested in maritime disasters, this book will give you a little something to sink your teeth into.
She's less successful in The Wave and I'm not sure whether it was that the topic was too broad to be handled as the stream of consciousness of someone who is easily distracted, or because the heart of the book was not in a place that interested me. The concept of the book is that until recently it was believed that waves of 100 feet or more were simply impossible from the point of view of basic physics; the weight of the water would cause the wave to collapse upon itself before it grew that high, and eyewitness accounts (which are rare, for reasons of drowning) were overstated due to understandable excitement. Then an 850-foot long cargo ship went down in a storm and the wreck showed damage high up on it's structure. An oil platform was also hit by a rogue wave of over 100 feet high and damage to the structure proved the oil workers were not making things up.
Half of the chapters are about how scientists are studying the physics of waves, how global warming is influencing the size of waves (hint: they are getting bigger), describing instances of giant waves and their aftermath and in discussing how we are reacting to the challenge of rogue waves. This was all excellent, although I would have liked a great deal more. She only describes one event in any detail and the book would have benefited from describing more dramatic events and with paying more attention to them. I would have also liked more of the science, which seems to be complex and speculative.
The other half of the book, told in alternating chapters, was a sort of sports article about a year in the life of surfing king Laird Hamilton, who developed something called tow-surfing. As waves get bigger, they also get faster, so that traditional surfing, where the surfer paddles out to the wave and "catches" it no longer works. Instead, the surfer is chauffeured out to the wave on a jet ski and sort of flung at speed onto its face. The jet ski then drives round the wave to rescue the surfer at the end of his ride. This would have made a great twenty pages or so, but Casey looooves the daredevil romance of it all, in which Hamilton and his entourage of fellow surfers and photographers travel the world to ride the enormous waves generated by storms at sea, and describes day after day of Hamilton's surfing exploits in Hawai'i, California, Mexico and Tahiti. Frankly, Hamilton comes across as an entitled asshat and I quickly grew tired of his complaints about how surfing is no longer the pure sport he practices (as supported by his corporate sponsorships), or how he hates competitions (as he travels with photographers on hand to film his majestic rides) and anyone surfing where he wants to surf. I'm not someone who would pick up a sports biography, so I'm clearly not the right person to comment on that half of the book, but it became a little repetitive over time.
Still, the central topic is fascinating and anything written about our changing oceans is worth a read.
Laird Hamilton and his fellow tow surfers are insane. They risk their lives to ride ever larger waves. Casey does a great job of capturing the surfers intensity and the risks they face. I would have liked to read more about the scientists and their work in predicting waves and also more detail about the destructive power of the waves. However, all in all, this is a wonderful book and well worth reading.
The first book -- the one that gets more than half the space, the one that (doubtless) sold the publisher on this project, and the one
The second book -- the one that should have been written by somebody else -- deals with the science of "big" waves, which for Casey includes not only freak mid-ocean waves, but also tsunamis and storm surges (coastal flooding caused by hurricanes and typhoons, certain to get worse as the polar ice recedes and sea levels rise). All those are fascinating subjects, but they're different subjects . . . from one another and from the storm-driven, shore-breaking waves that Casey's beloved surfers ride. She touches on all of them, but because they collectively get less than half the book there's not enough room to do justice to any of them, or to their implications for ships and coastal cities. A writer like John McPhee or Laurie Garrett -- comfortable with science, and gifted at explaining the complex clearly -- could have made this second book sing. In Casey's hands, it thuds. The science doesn't resonate, for her, the way the surf and the surfers do, and it shows.
The Wave succeeds as a surf-bum version of Into Thin Air or The Perfect Storm . . . but not as a piece of popular science. Here's hoping that some enterprising writer, and some astute publisher, get together and give the big waves the (science) book they deserve.
And as happens with many of the challenges that mother nature throws at us, there are the usual challengers.This particular challenge is picked up by hundreds of surfers world wide. This books also follows the exploits of this amazing group of individuals as they challenge the mightiest of waves,willing to risk life and limb for the ultimate challenge of surfing the hundred foot wave. Sometimes real life is stranger than fiction which is proved out over and over between the pages of The Waves.
I found this book to be very thought provoking and even hauntingly beautiful. It is also a brutal and terrorizing look at what global warming is doing to our oceans. Susan writes a very comprehensive account of both the scientific studies as well as the surfing from her view from the inside. She knows the people involved in both sides of the issue through both research as well as being one of them. While this is not a book of fiction, it reads very much like one, leaving you breathless at times and horrified and fearful at others. A very real look at a possible future.
I received this book as a free copy from Goodreads First Reads. I am not receiving any compensation and all opinions are my own based off my independent reading of this material.
My reason for reading this book, subtitled In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks, and Giants of the Ocean, is that I wanted to learn more about
The author talks with scientists studying the phenomenon and hangs out with the surfers who tackle these big waves. Despite the recent improvements in monitoring and measuring, the science still has a long way to go and the ocean is still wildly unpredictable. While the scientific information is interesting and enlightening, I really enjoyed getting a bit into the minds of the big-wave surfers who attempt challenges most of us would never even dream of trying. Some have paid with their lives. Many are part of a close knit pseudo-family, enduring the squabbles all families have but watching out for one another, often at the risk of their own lives.
“If I scare myself once every day, I am a better person,” he had said, “It helps to have that little jolt of perspective that life's fragile.”
(This quote is from an advance bound galley, so may have changed in the published edition.)
The number of huge ships, especially the low-riding tankers, that just disappear without a trace and with little if any media coverage is amazing. Often these ships are registered to countries with loose maritime standards and crewed by under-trained third world natives.
The book also contains information on maritime insurance, climate change, marine salvage companies, lots of people and organizations involved with the vagaries of oceanic behavior.
I do wish the author had explained a few more of the surfing terms for the uninitiated, like I am. That is my only quibble with the book, and it is a minor one. All in all, the book is a fascinating read.
I was given a copy of the bound galley by the publisher, for which I am very grateful.
Although, I have never surfed or been around surfers, I found the book to be easy to follow and hard to put down.
I have spent many hours sailing around the Great Lakes and the most fascinating thing to me was the waves and how they actually moved. Logic tells you that the water moves along as a unit, but in reality, the water bobs up and down as the wave energy rolls along. Toss a paper cup (if you are a litterer) or a stick in to the waves sometime, or watch forlornly as a hat blows in the water. It will ride up the front of the wave, flop around briefly at the top, then serenely slide down the back without much lateral movement at all. There are old sailor's tales about every seventh wave being the biggest, but this might be a Great Lakes thing. Very thought provoking stuff.
The book is well written and engaging, written in a lively, conversational tone. I enjoyed it very much, and might go so far as to call it a book about science for people who would never read a book about a scientific topic.
If someone at Doubleday reads this, I noticed a few very minor possible typos in my galley edition. One was a sentence about '...the limitations of the XX chromosome.' I'm pretty sure there should be a plural in there somewhere as the XX would be two chromosomes. Also there were some ship names in italics but one of them was not, at the beginning of the chapter titled 'Heavy Weather'. Just thought you might want to know.
Her research takes her among the big wave surfing elite of Laird Hamilton & David Kalama to an international conference of oceanographers and physicists to Lloyd's of London and to high risk ocean salvage operators in South Africa. The descriptions of huge waves will astound you, and the statistics of ocean accidents will make you think twice before booking your next cruise.
This is the first book of Casey's that I've read, so maybe I'll try another one and see how that goes. But as of now, The Wave is not a book I'll be rereading anytime soon.
The second theme, exemplified by the movie "The Perfect Storm", I found much more interesting. Tsunami and freak waves caused by earthquakes are catastrophic events of extremely low frequency. As few of their victims survive such an onslaught, there is a scarcity of both data and awareness. The sea (and especially the Pacific Sea) is still a dangerous place where minute inattention can spell doom for a ship, its cargo and its crew. As long as commercial insurance and the life of a ship's Third World crew remains cheap, ships will not be built to withstand such freak accidents. The author at least whetted my appetite to read more about meteorological disasters which are bound to increase due to the human propensity to build closer to the sea and the global climate changes.
I grew up in land-locked Oklahoma. I married a guy from Florida who spent as much time surfing as he did going to college. On our honeymoon, he tried to introduce me to the ocean. The waves were up to my armpits and he tried to get me to swim through one to
That’s part of the reason I started this book with both anticipation and fear. The idea of someone actually wanting to ride a 100-foot wave fascinated me, but if a 4-foot wave could unhinge me, what would descriptions of a pounding by a 100-foot wave do?
The book did not disappoint. The stories that Susan Casey tells of Laird Hamilton and his buddies taking on these giants of the oceans were breathtaking. I enjoyed learning about the mechanics of tow surfing and getting into the heads of the surfers as they do things that humans are not supposed to be able to do.
When I started the book I wondered how much there could be to say about waves, but Casey did a great job mixing up the stories of surfing with interviews with experts studying how these waves are generated and what can be done to help those responsible for steering giant ships through them and rescuing those who get caught in them. Even those chapters kept me up at night wanting to see what happened next.
And one other kudo to Casey. This is a book of superlatives. Describing ultimate waves, the scientists that study them, and the brave but wacky surfers that ride them over and over again could have degenerated into a book of clichés, but Casey didn’t let that happen. She did a great job keeping the similes and metaphors fresh throughout.
Great book! Highly recommended!
The book has a few historic anecdotes and some weak science (not the author's fault, wave science requires serious math), but its strength is the depiction of the people and places involved in the quest to find and surf the biggest wave humanly possible.
Worth reading.
I agree with EclecticEccentric's review that each chapter is a different location, but the gist is the same. There is a lot of speculation about waves, and lot scientists haven't figured out. The characters are basically the same, and although they deserve recognition for their bravery, they are putting themselves in danger for the thrill. I appreciate their depth in feeling for our oceans, but they are not heroes, in the sense of Firefighters, Doctors, Nurses, Police Officers, or the Military.
Casey does put the human element into the book with the surfers, but continues to stress how much we don't know about the science of waves. Maybe the book should have been titled "Big Wave Surfers" and left the science to a minimum. It is obvious that she did exhaustive research on the subject, and although she gave us factoids, the focus seemed to be more on Laird Hamilton and his buddies. After a while I felt I needed to skim (which is not good) to get to something new.
This is not a dry facts and figures science book. Susan Casey writes in a wonderfully descriptive and engaging style. The book reads like a novel but at the same time you are digesting scientific data and amazing facts. She makes the science easy to understand and the descriptions of the surfers, the waves and the rough seas come to life.
The author traveled with surfer Laird Hamilton and his friends, all extreme surfers that seek out giant waves. These are not just any big waves, they are 60, 70 and even 100 foot high waves. They are not the kind of waves one can paddle out to; they require the surfer to get a tow with a jet ski and have a teammate to rescue them when they hit the surf. There is little margin for error. They risk serious injury and even death when slammed by the force of one of these waves. Their amazing adventure is told in alternating chapters with the story of the scientists and their aspirations to understand how and why these giant waves are formed.
Every two years wave scientists gather at a conference to exchange information on wave research. This has become a hot topic since the 2004 Indonesian tsunami and the recent concerns of how climate change could affect the world’s oceans. The warmer the water the more volatile the seas become with more destructive storms and larger waves. It is also theorized that with the sea level rising due to the melting of the ice cap there is more pressure on ocean bottom resulting in a greater number of underwater earthquakes and, as a result, tsunamis. Again, fascinating stuff.
Each year more than two dozen large ships and their crews go missing. It usually gets explained away as bad weather and is never studied in the same way an airplane crash is analyzed. These scientists want to change that and are now investigating disappearing ships. The author meets with many of the scientists, attends their conventions and explains the research to us in such a clear way that we don’t have to know calculus or chaos theory to understand it. I had no problem following along and I haven’t taken a science or math class in years.
If you enjoy reading about adventure I highly recommend this book. You may not want to go on a cruise or a swim in the ocean after you read it but I know you will be amazed, awed and entertained.
This fine work is a skein of three interconnected stories, the dawning recognition in the scientific community that the “Giant Waves” long thought to be myth do indeed exist, a review of some of the most deadly effects of great waves, and the thrilling stories of the men and women who challenge the sea for sport.
Strange and frightening events have happened at sea. In 1982 a 337-foot-high oil platform which was built to withstand 110-foot seas and 115-mile-per-hour winds capsized and sank close to instantly, killing all eight-four people on board. The author’s investigations at Lloyd’s of London revile an almost unnoticed list of maritime disasters. In the years from 1990 to mid-1997 a total of ninety-nine huge bulk carriers were lost. Then in a four-month period in the winter of 1997-98 twenty-seven vessels along with 645 people were lost in a single four month period.
Weaving through this story is the growing belief by the scientific community that things are most likely to get worse before they get better. The effects of climatic change will be significant at sea. Effects that range from higher sea levels to more frequent tsunamis are likely as the increased weight of water makes the sea floor itself more prone to underwater landslides and collapses.
In the mist of this change and concern came a startling announcement. In July 2001 a man named Bill Sharp speaking for a surf wear company issued a press release. It offered a prize of $500,000 to anyone who rode a 100 foot wave. This “Golden Carrot” created a huge surge in people attempting to ride big waves and brought many people into the extreme sport who had no business being there.
Ms. Casey spends almost half of her book on the sport of surfing and its many manifestations and on the individual who choose the extreme end of the sport. She writes with power and with a deep understanding of the experience. She choose her narrators early and follows them through the period when the fall out from this challenge made a huge and often tragic impact on the sport of surfing.
From start to finish this is a wild ride of a book that manages to be as educational as it is exciting. It is hard to review this book without falling into “my heart beat faster” or “I was on the edge of my chair” but it is in truth that good of a tale.
A copy of this book was provided free for the purposes of this review.
Anyway, enough about me
In addition to the surfing, she also included interviews with scientists studying the ocean, waves and the environment. Wisely, this information wasn't too overwhelming. It was really interesting to me, but in small doses - which Casey manages to deliver. Overall, I really enjoyed this book and there's a lot of different reasons others might as well - from the extreme sports enthusiasts to the environmentally conscious to those who just love a good cliffhanger.