Eiger Dreams: Ventures Among Men and Mountains

by Jon Krakauer

Paperback, 2011

Status

Checked out
Due 1 Apr 2024

Collection

Publication

Pan (2011), Edition: Reprints, 204 pages

Description

No one writes about mountaineering and its attendant hardships and victories more brilliantly than critically acclaimed author Jon Krakauer. In this collection of his finest work from such magazines as Outside and Smithsonian, he explores the subject from the unique and memorable perspective of one who has battled peaks like K2, Denali, Everest, and, of course, the Eiger. Always with a keen eye, an open heart, and a hunger for the ultimate experience, he gives us unerring portraits of the mountaineering experience. Yet Eiger Dreams is more about people than about rock and ice--people with that odd, sometimes maniacal obsession with mountain summits that sets them apart from other men and women. Here we meet Adrian the Romanian, determined to be the first of his countrymen to solo Denali; John Gill, climber not of great mountains but of house-sized boulders so difficult to surmount that even demanding alpine climbs seem easy; and many more compelling and colorful characters. In the most intimate piece, "The Devils Thumb," Krakauer recounts his own near-fatal, ultimately triumphant struggle with solo-madness as he scales Alaska's Devils Thumb. Eiger Dreams is stirring, vivid writing about one of the most compelling and dangerous of all human pursuits.… (more)

User reviews

LibraryThing member hockeycrew
Several very interesting short stories combine history with climbs documenting the sports that take place in the mountains. Excellent writing. It is possible that the non-climber may find some of the technical terms slightly confusing.
LibraryThing member breic2
A collection of magazine articles on climbing, both failures and successes. The stories on Krakauer's own climbing---"Eiger Dreams" and "The Devil's Thumb"---are the most interesting. There are also essays profiling climbers---"Gill" on a boulderer and "The Burgess Boys," a tedious profile of two
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twins. "Valdez Ice" talks around ice climbing, especially near Valdez, Alaska, and "Canyoneering" is about Arizona canyons. A few of the stories seem to be filler, with no real point, especially "A Mountain Higher Than Everest?" and "Chamonix." "A Bad Summer on K2" gives some background on the 1986 climbing season on K2, when 13 people died and 26 summited.
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LibraryThing member siafl
A fantastic read. Krakauer manages to really bring you close to the core of his ventures even for people who don't know much in the first place. Not that one becomes an expert after one mere read of the book, what the book does it really opens one's eyes to why mountaineering (and related
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activities) are so challenging yet endearing, and that it's not for the faint of hearts. I find parts where Krakauer goes into the psychology of things fascinating.

Highly recommended. In my humble opinion this book is even better than Into Thin Air.
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LibraryThing member FireandIce
This collection of Krakauer's articles was thoroughly enjoyable. The author has a gift for not only describing the technical aspects of mountaineering, but for describing the reasons people choose to climb mountains.
LibraryThing member SethAndrew
Eiger Dreams is a collection of Krakauers atricles on mountain climbing from various magazines. The articles are typical Krakauer. Writing with his usual terrific reporting and vivid descriptions, he takes the reader along on his trips onto mountain across the globe. A great collection of adventure
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writing, even for someone who has never climbed the smallest of hills.
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LibraryThing member JechtShot
Eiger Dreams is a collection of 12 non-fiction mountaineering shorts by Jon Krakauer. The stories range in topics from the art of "bouldering" to deadly climbing escapades on K2.

I read and enjoyed Into Thin Air and Into The Wild, but this book did not spark my interest in the same manner. I found
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myself yawning through the name-droppingly dull story of Chamonix. Krakauer spent a great deal of paper real estate describing every climber that set foot in town and penned what felt like only a few paragraphs on the actual mountain. Unfortunately, a few stories in the collection shared this characteristic.

This collection is not all bad. A few standouts include: "Eiger Dreams" - describes attempts to conquer the North Face of the Eiger, "Gill" - A tale of bouldering and "The Devils Thumb" - A personal account where Krakauer sets out to climb in Alaska alone (Should be a familiar tale if you have read Into The Wild).

Unfortunately, this book did not rate very high for me, but if you are a Krakauer fan it may be worth reading just for a few of the standout stories mentioned above.
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LibraryThing member co_coyote
Although published rather recently (2009), this book has the feel of a book written long before that. And, indeed, it turns out to be a collection of magazine articles Krakauer has written over a 15 or 20 year career. It is clearly Krakauer, but it is not as polished or as evocative of some of his
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best, later writing. Nevertheless, a most enjoyable book about some of the characters who climb the world's biggest and most challenging mountains.
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LibraryThing member ecw0647
Now why would someone who generally hates cold weather and snow become so intrigued by books and videos about mountaineering? I was fooling around with my IPODs (have one of each generation being an addict to electronic devices) that plays video and just for laughs downloaded The Discovery
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Channel's Everest series from iTunes and watched it on my little iPod. Clarity and resolution are astonishing.

That got me back into Eiger Dreams. It's outstanding. I had already read Into Thin Air and Into the Wild, both excellent. So here I am blowing snow off my long (800 ft) lane, knocking back drifts, trying to keep my glasses free of snow, enjoying Audible's Eiger Dreams, read quite credibly by the author. Bizarre scene, but very enjoyable.

I am more than a little surprised that no one has forced the climbers to clean up after themselves, What a mess on the Everest summit; and apparently, according to Krakauer, it's difficult to find clean snow to melt on Mt. McKinley there is so much excrement from previous climbers. Time to send some cleanup expeditions.
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LibraryThing member wareagle78
A dozen fascinating essays on climbing, its history and its personalities. I always enjoy Krakauer's work, and this is no exception.
LibraryThing member chaghi
Nice collection of essays about mountaineering. It was Krakauer's first book, but it shows his usual writing style, which I happen to like a lot. Nice, entertaining and easy reading if you are into mountaineering, or at least if you're curious about it.
LibraryThing member melydia
To start with, I am not a mountain climber and have zero interest in becoming one. So when I tell you that I was enthralled by these articles on mountaineering, it's not because of any innate interest in the sport. The lifestyle is completely different from anything I'd ever experienced: people
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camping out in the snow for days, waiting for the weather to be right for climbing; regular trips to remote locations in Nepal and Alaska; picking one's way straight up a wall of ice. While Krakauer does not flinch from any of the grisly realities of such a dangerous sport, either - A Bad Summer on K2 is especially grim - he also shares some of the amazing accomplishments that otherwise ordinary people have made in the face of an especially unwelcoming part of Nature. But while I still prefer to be reading from the warmth of my cozy chair, I did catch a glimpse of why people might want to climb mountains, as crazy as it sounds.
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LibraryThing member dypaloh
Jon Krakauer’s Eiger Dreams features the best use of the word “banal” I’ve ever seen or ever will. I’d like his book for that alone but there’s plenty else. For example, it offers the most novel use of curtain rods I’ve encountered (then again, I don’t think about curtain rods much;
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those who do may have amazing stories to tell).

Eiger Dreams consists, with one exception, of material from previously published magazine articles, several of which I’d read before. Reading them again was a treat what with their vivid descriptions of peril mixed with laugh-out-loud episodes. The title piece is a great example of the contrasting aplomb even experienced individuals bring to an ascent, and one can’t but be intrigued by a climb on which the safest place for a night’s rest is known as the “Death Bivouac.” In another chapter, we hear Dr. Howard Donner say about his experiences at Denali, “It’s sort of like fun, only different.” Our author understands exactly what that means.

The one chapter published here for the first time describes Krakauer’s solo climb of an intimidating Alaskan protuberance called The Devil’s Thumb. It too is “fun.” A lesser writer might have turned the adventure into a full-length book. Instead, the author makes from his pursuit of that peak a first-rate capstone to this enjoyable collection.
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LibraryThing member Tikimoof
Every once in a while, I remember my fascination with mountain climbing. As a lifelong acrophobe, I have absolutely no desire to climb mountains myself (12,000 feet and I do not agree), but seeing photos of the stark beauty of Everest's Western Cwm, I can understand the appeal.

I'd never read
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Krakauer's mountain climbing stories before. I think I've heard about some of his takes on K2's Black Summer of 1986, and the Everest Disaster of 1996, but I'd forgotten the details by the time I read this book, and I'm glad for it.

Krakauer has an amazing way with words. I had to look up so many of the references he made, and the analogies were extremely vivid. When describing views that most people will never see, this is important and very much appreciated. He's also very self-deprecating. When describing climbing trips, he explains the technical prowess of his partner, leaving his own accomplishments unremarked (being able to hang with these guys is an accomplishment of itself. He fawns over Marc Twight's 5.12 rating, but Krakauer is right there on the Nordwand with him).

This leaves a weird sense of both an outsider and an insider's view into the world of mountain climbing. Krakauer is obviously capable of making many of these climbs - and has attempted many of them - but his lack of single-minded life-destroying drive puts him right back down with mortal men. It's an interesting gap to bridge.

Eiger Dreams was immediately dated by the time it was written. A lot of the stories serve as a snapshot biography of people famous in the climbing world in 1989, who may or may not still be well-known thirty years later. Krakauer does an excellent job of humanizing them, which comes with the cost of realizing how human they are. The Burgess twins, for instance, didn't sound like particularly nice men.

I'm giving this a 4 because it was well-written, but I didn't think all of the essays flowed or fit together perfectly. The Chamonix chapter was especially unappealing to me.
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Language

Original language

English

Original publication date

1992-09-01

Physical description

204 p.; 7.76 inches

ISBN

9780330370004
Page: 0.5593 seconds