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No one writes about mountaineering and its attendant hardships and victories more brilliantly than critically acclaimed author Jon Krakauer. In this collection of his finest work from such magazines as Outside and Smithsonian, he explores the subject from the unique and memorable perspective of one who has battled peaks like K2, Denali, Everest, and, of course, the Eiger. Always with a keen eye, an open heart, and a hunger for the ultimate experience, he gives us unerring portraits of the mountaineering experience. Yet Eiger Dreams is more about people than about rock and ice--people with that odd, sometimes maniacal obsession with mountain summits that sets them apart from other men and women. Here we meet Adrian the Romanian, determined to be the first of his countrymen to solo Denali; John Gill, climber not of great mountains but of house-sized boulders so difficult to surmount that even demanding alpine climbs seem easy; and many more compelling and colorful characters. In the most intimate piece, "The Devils Thumb," Krakauer recounts his own near-fatal, ultimately triumphant struggle with solo-madness as he scales Alaska's Devils Thumb. Eiger Dreams is stirring, vivid writing about one of the most compelling and dangerous of all human pursuits.… (more)
User reviews
Highly recommended. In my humble opinion this book is even better than Into Thin Air.
I read and enjoyed Into Thin Air and Into The Wild, but this book did not spark my interest in the same manner. I found
This collection is not all bad. A few standouts include: "Eiger Dreams" - describes attempts to conquer the North Face of the Eiger, "Gill" - A tale of bouldering and "The Devils Thumb" - A personal account where Krakauer sets out to climb in Alaska alone (Should be a familiar tale if you have read Into The Wild).
Unfortunately, this book did not rate very high for me, but if you are a Krakauer fan it may be worth reading just for a few of the standout stories mentioned above.
That got me back into Eiger Dreams. It's outstanding. I had already read Into Thin Air and Into the Wild, both excellent. So here I am blowing snow off my long (800 ft) lane, knocking back drifts, trying to keep my glasses free of snow, enjoying Audible's Eiger Dreams, read quite credibly by the author. Bizarre scene, but very enjoyable.
I am more than a little surprised that no one has forced the climbers to clean up after themselves, What a mess on the Everest summit; and apparently, according to Krakauer, it's difficult to find clean snow to melt on Mt. McKinley there is so much excrement from previous climbers. Time to send some cleanup expeditions.
Eiger Dreams consists, with one exception, of material from previously published magazine articles, several of which I’d read before. Reading them again was a treat what with their vivid descriptions of peril mixed with laugh-out-loud episodes. The title piece is a great example of the contrasting aplomb even experienced individuals bring to an ascent, and one can’t but be intrigued by a climb on which the safest place for a night’s rest is known as the “Death Bivouac.” In another chapter, we hear Dr. Howard Donner say about his experiences at Denali, “It’s sort of like fun, only different.” Our author understands exactly what that means.
The one chapter published here for the first time describes Krakauer’s solo climb of an intimidating Alaskan protuberance called The Devil’s Thumb. It too is “fun.” A lesser writer might have turned the adventure into a full-length book. Instead, the author makes from his pursuit of that peak a first-rate capstone to this enjoyable collection.
I'd never read
Krakauer has an amazing way with words. I had to look up so many of the references he made, and the analogies were extremely vivid. When describing views that most people will never see, this is important and very much appreciated. He's also very self-deprecating. When describing climbing trips, he explains the technical prowess of his partner, leaving his own accomplishments unremarked (being able to hang with these guys is an accomplishment of itself. He fawns over Marc Twight's 5.12 rating, but Krakauer is right there on the Nordwand with him).
This leaves a weird sense of both an outsider and an insider's view into the world of mountain climbing. Krakauer is obviously capable of making many of these climbs - and has attempted many of them - but his lack of single-minded life-destroying drive puts him right back down with mortal men. It's an interesting gap to bridge.
Eiger Dreams was immediately dated by the time it was written. A lot of the stories serve as a snapshot biography of people famous in the climbing world in 1989, who may or may not still be well-known thirty years later. Krakauer does an excellent job of humanizing them, which comes with the cost of realizing how human they are. The Burgess twins, for instance, didn't sound like particularly nice men.
I'm giving this a 4 because it was well-written, but I didn't think all of the essays flowed or fit together perfectly. The Chamonix chapter was especially unappealing to me.