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In the late nineteenth century, people were obsessed by one of the last unmapped areas of the globe: the North Pole. No one knew what existed beyond the fortress of ice rimming the northern oceans, although theories abounded. The foremost cartographer in the world, a German named August Petermann, believed that warm currents sustained a verdant island at the top of the world. National glory would fall to whoever could plant his flag upon its shores. James Gordon Bennett, the eccentric and stupendously wealthy owner of The New York Herald, had recently captured the world's attention by dispatching Stanley to Africa to find Dr. Livingstone. Now he was keen to re-create that sensation on an even more epic scale. So he funded an official U.S. naval expedition to reach the Pole, choosing as its captain a young officer named George Washington De Long, who had gained fame for a rescue operation off the coast of Greenland. De Long led a team of 32 men deep into uncharted Arctic waters, carrying the aspirations of a young country burning to become a world power. On July 8, 1879, the USS Jeannette set sail from San Francisco to cheering crowds in the grip of "Arctic Fever." The ship sailed into uncharted seas, but soon was trapped in pack ice. Two years into the harrowing voyage, the hull was breached. Amid the rush of water and the shrieks of breaking wooden boards, the crew abandoned the ship. Less than an hour later, the Jeannette sank to the bottom, and the men found themselves marooned a thousand miles north of Siberia with only the barest supplies. Thus began their long march across the endless ice -- a frozen hell in the most lonesome corner of the world. Facing everything from snow blindness and polar bears to ferocious storms and frosty labyrinths, the expedition battled madness and starvation as they desperately strove for survival.… (more)
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De Long's crew is filled with memorable and admirable men (and only a few "problem children") who fight through some extremely tough conditions. I don't want to give away the course of their travels because that's most of the fun of reading this book. I will say though, that there are adventures on sea, ice pack, and land. As always with polar exploration books, the conditions these men endure are unbelievable and admittedly their preparation was not good, though considering the information at hand I think they did what they could.
Hampton Sides does a great job of keeping the story moving along and especially of describing the geography and terrain. John Muir makes an appearance as part of a team sent to try to locate the Jeannette. I love reading about these remote areas of the earth and definitely recommend this book to anyone who loves the polar exploration books. It's not quite as good as The Last Place on Earth or Endurance, but it gets 5 stars from me none the less for keeping me riveted to the very last page.
Shortly, after arriving
This is a harrowing, incredibly thrilling adventure tale, meticulously researched and written, by one of my favorite nonfiction authors.
James Gordon Bennett, the eccentric and stupendously wealthy owner of The New York Herald, had recently captured the world's attention by dispatching Stanley to Africa to find Dr. Livingstone. Now he was keen to re-create that sensation on an even more epic scale. So he funded an official U.S. naval expedition to reach the Pole, choosing as its captain a young officer named George Washington De Long, who had gained fame for a rescue operation off the coast of Greenland. De Long led a team of 32 men deep into uncharted Arctic waters, carrying the aspirations of a young country burning to become a world power. On July 8, 1879, the USS Jeannette set sail from San Francisco to cheering crowds in the grip of "Arctic Fever."
The ship sailed into uncharted seas, but soon was trapped in pack ice. Two years into the harrowing voyage, the hull was breached. Amid the rush of water and the shrieks of breaking wooden boards, the crew abandoned the ship. Less than an hour later, the Jeannette sank to the bottom,and the men found themselves marooned a thousand miles north of Siberia with only the barest supplies. Thus began their long march across the endless ice—a frozen hell in the most lonesome corner of the world. Facing everything from snow blindness and polar bears to ferocious storms and frosty labyrinths, the expedition battled madness and starvation as they desperately strove for survival.
With twists and turns worthy of a thriller, In The Kingdom of Ice is a spellbinding tale of heroism and determination in the most unforgiving territory on Earth.
“We have the right kind of stuff to dare all that man can do,” De Long
Being a major fan of Polar exploration accounts I was eagerly looking forward to reading this book.
I was not disappointed. Gordon Bennett! What a thumping good read.
The author makes great use of authentic source material in this extensively researched account of the forgotten tragedy USS Jeanette's doomed voyage.
A wonderful example of narrative non fiction - a tale that reads like a novel but with the detail of a historical study. The author brings back to life the crew and their courage and persistence to survive but never once losing their humanity. The section on the Lena Delta, its ice barrier and indigenous population was fascinating
One criticism; a book on this subject with so many references needs an index, next edition maybe?
Previous attempts at reaching the pole had failed. All had tried to reach it by creeping up the coast of Greenland. Ice inevitably stopped these expeditions. This new attempt would try to reach it via the Bering Strait based on a theory that a warm current of water known as the Kuro-Siwa drove far enough north to weaken the ice pack and provide an open water route to the pole. What happened to the crew of the USS Jeanette is extraordinary – and I am not going to relate it here because I do not want to ruin it.
It reads like a Jack London novel on steroids!
If you are off to the beach this year and looking for something to wile away your time…bring this book. And no doubt, Hollywood will want to get in on the act as I cannot imagine a better story for the big screen!
As late as the end of the nineteenth century, no human being had ever been to the North Pole, but theories about what lay there abounded. All that was
James Gordon Bennett, the eccentric plutocrat who owned The New York Herald, believed that newspapers should not only report the news, but should also make it. It was he who sent Sir Henry Stanley to Africa to find Dr. David Livingstone (who was in no need of finding) and in the process to greatly increase newspaper circulation by reporting on his travels. Seeking another such coup, Bennett decided to sponsor a U.S. naval expedition to reach the Pole. He purchased a sturdy 146 foot, three-masted steam vessel, formerly belonging to the Royal Navy, and renamed it Jeannette after his sister. He designated as Captain a young officer named George Washington DeLong, who had won some renown in a rescue operation off the coast of Greenland. DeLong then recruited a crew of 32 men and set sail for the Arctic, guided only by charts prepared by cartographers who had never been there!
North of the Bering Strait, the ship was soon trapped in pack ice, where it remained for two years! Although completely immobile, the ship drifted about 1,000 miles in that time. Finally, the ice melted enough for the ship to float, but the next day, the ice returned with a vengeance, this time crushing the hull as with a vise and sending the Jeanette to the bottom. The crew was able to abandon ship in time to save most of their supplies and three small boats, but they were marooned on the ice hundreds of miles from the nearest land.
What followed makes a harrowing tale of extreme courage, resourcefulness, endurance, suffering, and comradeship as the crew “raced” to the coast of Siberia, one thousand miles away, before the onset of the Arctic winter. As it was, they could manage only a few miles a day because of all the supplies, equipment, and documents they dragged along. All of the men made it to the edge of the pack ice with their three small boats, but during their attempt to cross to the mainland they encountered a gale, which caused the boats to lose track of one another. Twenty of the original 33 men died (including DeLong), but the stories of some of those lost were preserved in their diaries, which were later discovered along with their frozen bodies. The heroic effort to make sure these accounts were saved was led by the crew’s engineer, George Melville (said to be distantly related to Herman Melville).
Evaluation: As in his other books (Ghost Soldiers, Blood and Thunder, and Hellhound on His Trail), Hampton Sides moves this non-fiction narrative along at the pace of riveting, page-turning fiction. This is another gripping spell-binder, sure to please anyone interested in early polar exploration or just plain adventure.
(JAB)
In a time before airplanes and cruise ships, telephones and automobiles, extensive maps and geographic information, the desire to explore unknown areas like the North Pole, obsessed some wealthy people who were willing to fund such expeditions. The danger was enormous but the curiosity, for some, was greater. Because of the conditions in the Arctic, there was no way for anyone to be rescued if things went awry, no planes to search the ocean, no maps to follow, no GPS, no ice breakers to mount a really successful and immediate search. Any effort would be very time consuming and difficult. All of the dangers that the explorer ship encountered would also be encountered by the rescue ships, so often they turned back without results.
An American publisher, James Bennett, August Petermann, a well-known British cartographer, and George Washington De Long, a Naval officer, all wanted to explore the waterways north and be the first to reach the North Pole. Bennett funded the expedition and hired George Washington De Long to lead it. Petermann was the mastermind behind the failed effort since his charts and maps were flawed and fell short of providing the correct information necessary for success and survival. In addition, his theories about the area to be explored turned out to be balderdash and led to the U.S.S. Jeannette’s (formerly “The HMS Pandora”), eventual short-lived journey. They became marooned on an ice floe, for almost as long as they tried to escape the Arctic ice by ship. They remained lost at sea for about 4 years.
When they became irrevocably stuck in the ice and could not get free, they survived for several years on the stores of supplies they carried with them and on wildlife from the sea, land and sky, Soon, though, they were fraught with unexpected dangers. The ice crushed and tossed the forlorn crew and ship, hither and yon, causing it to spring leaks and sustain damage, and eventually, the ice dealt it a death blow and it had to be abandoned. DeLong and his crew suffered from illnesses like frostbite and scurvy, and also from some unknown sicknesses, one of which was eventually determined to be from the lead in the cans of tomatoes. When they became ill, they did not have adequate medical supplies and were unable to get help from elsewhere. Also, this was more than two centuries ago and medical knowledge was in its fledgling stage; there were no antibiotics and no diagnostic technical equipment was available. There was no way to communicate their plight to anyone in the outside world. Their world was virtually blacked out from the rest of humanity.
The excruciating journey was burdened with unforced errors from the beginning. Following the in completely drawn maps of the famed cartographer, August Petermann, and also trusting in his theories about a water route to the North Pole through the Bering Strait, which was later proven incorrect and rife with errors, the expedition was doomed to failure. This is the story of their struggle to survive. The first third of the book was filled with details about the backgrounds of the major characters involved in the endeavor. It sometimes got bogged down in the minutiae and became tedious and a bit boring. Moving along, though, once the journey begins, it grows fascinating as you realize the determination, strength of character, courage and fortitude these men must have possessed to even undertake such a journey, knowing many before them had died trying to accomplish the same goal. Their valor and fearlessness when confronted with so little hope for survival and such vast expanses of emptiness and uninhabited wastelands, was extraordinary. The author deserves kudos for the amazing amount of research that went into this well planned and well laid out explanation of the USS Jeannette’s birth and ultimate death, concentrating on the period of time from its purchase in 1878, its refitting and its sailing in 1879, to the time of the discovery of the remains of the seamen that never made it back, in 1882, in spite of the multiple search parties sent out to find them. When one thinks of the conditions that they suffered under, one has to wonder that any survived and marvel at their courage, determination and sense of purpose..
This is a remarkable story of human survival through unbelievable circumstances. If it were fiction I would not have believed that the crew could have possibly lived through what they did. This is one of the most inspiring accounts I have read.
I was enthralled with the book from beginning to end.
Many ships had set out for the Pole but no one had made it yet and the deaths were plentiful. Since the previous ships had all used the same general route, Lieutenant DeLong (USN) believed that the key to success was to take a completely different route. He also knew that he had to carefully select his crew because the voyage would include terrible privations. Selecting provisions was also a huge and critical process.
The wealthy Editor of The New York Herald agreed to finance the trip. The US Navy agreed to make the Jeanette a Navy ship with Lieutenant DeBold in command. The hand selected crew consisted of military and civilians making for an interesting command situation.
Although the Jeanette did not make it to the Pole, they went far enough to determine that there was no warm sea to be found. In the process they recorded an exceptional amount of critical scientific data heretofore unknown.
Some of the men made it home, but not all. Since some did live, and because the scientific data they had meticulously gathered made it home, the voyage of the USS Jeanette was very successful in spite of the fact they did not meet their final goal, their ultimate goal.
The men underwent such traumatic conditions that some of them started eating their clothes and shoes which were made of animal skins.
I enjoy reading about those who have succeeded against all odds. The Jeanette was locked in ice for over a year, with the crew suffering incredibly cold and often wet conditions, lack of food and not knowing when to turn around nor how to return home. The word "hero" is used lightly today, but the Jeanette crew were true heroes. It was people like that who made our nation great.
It just might be.
But how can that be? you continue. Didn’t you also read the amazing Dead Wake? And Being Mortal?
Yes. And yes.
You prod me, You just can’t leave it at that. Tell me more.
But Kingdom of Ice is the
Yes, you say. I see. Now that’s a story.
Yes. That’s a story.
Previous attempts at reaching the pole had failed. All had tried to reach it by creeping up the coast of Greenland. Ice inevitably stopped these expeditions. This new attempt would try to reach it via the Bering Strait based on a theory that a warm current of water known as the Kuro-Siwa drove far enough north to weaken the ice pack and provide an open water route to the pole. What happened to the crew of the USS Jeanette is extraordinary – and I am not going to relate it here because I do not want to ruin it.
It reads like a Jack London novel on steroids!
If you are off to the beach this year and looking for something to wile away your time…bring this book. And no doubt, Hollywood will want to get in on the act as I cannot imagine a better story for the big screen!
Granted, the Jeanette does not leave her San Francisco dock until page 137, which means Sides does plenty of
Once the boat gets underway, an exciting and daring expedition begins. Instead of focusing merely on the commander De Long, Sides ensures that we know the rest of the crew, some of whom sacrificed their lives in this attempted Arctic venture. Interspersed throughout are letters from De Long’s wife, Emma; she is, in turns, depressed, optimistic, and numb throughout this three-year ordeal.
Suffice it to say that the ending is almost incomprehensible to a mere reader – slogging through ice packs with the wind howling, temps twenty below zero, what’s left of your boots soaking wet, gnawing on pieces of your leather jacket. The sheer bravery and fortitude of these men reads like a fiction story, but it is all too real.
Throughout, Sides’s lyrical prose flows naturally. One of my favorite examples: “He passed through the Thuringian Forest, the ancient land dipping and heaving like a dark green sea. The train dropped into a fertile basin, a patchwork of cow pastures and mustard fields, and then chuffed into the prim village of Gotha” (75).
Even if you do not have any interest in historical exploration, you will enjoy this as a story of unparalleled determination.
James Gordon Bennett was the eccentric and extremely wealthy owner of The New York Herald. He had recently funded Stanley's trip to Africa to find Dr. Livingstone as way to sell
At the time, the North Pole was still unknown and unexplored. The foremost cartographer in the world, a German named August Petermann, believed that warm currents sustained open water at the top of the world. The theory was that the warm Japan current flowed through the Bering Strait toward the pole and created an area of warmer, ice-free water around the pole. If a ship could just break through the ice ring, it could reach the pole. Peterman even forecast that there was a landmass at the pole.
Of course, we now know that he was wrong.
The writing in the book is superb. There are great elements and themes in the book. I found the story itself to be lacking. Perhaps I've read too many polar expedition books. (Explorers travel north, get trapped in the ice floe and suffer.)
"In the Kingdom of Ice" is a tremendous tale of human achievement and tragedy. He captures both the grandeur and hubris of a bygone America and treats both honestly and respectfully. Every key character in the tale of the Jeanette expedition is truthfully but sympathetically drawn; they aren't "heroes" or "villains"...they are real, flesh-and-blood people. This strikes me as a difficult accomplishment when one is telling a story of feats of near-superhuman endurance.
"In the Kingdom of Ice" strikes that wonderful balance of telling a TRUE story...a little bit sad, a little bit grandiose, a little bit humorous...but REAL and, therefore, worthy to be told.
It just might be.
But how can that be? you continue. Didn’t you also read the amazing Dead Wake? And Being Mortal?
Yes. And yes.
You prod me, You just can’t leave it at that. Tell me more.
But Kingdom of Ice is the
Yes, you say. I see. Now that’s a story.
Yes. That’s a story.
The book starts out
The journey began in San Francisco. The ship held stores for several years -- while the Arctic was largely unknown, it's dangers were not unanticipated. Once in polar seas, the ship became promptly locked in ice for nearly 2 years. When the ice finally started to give way, the ship was destroyed by moving ice floes. Among rescue missions sent to look for the Jeanette was one containing renown naturalist John Muir.
The expedition discovered a number of islands, most of them off the north coast of Siberia and now Russian possessions. Jeanette Island, Bennett Island, Wrangel Island were among these, and an island group has been named "The DeLong Islands" in memory of the expedition. After the Jeanette was destroyed, three small boats were portaged by the crew, who at first had teams of dogs to help move supplies, but as food became scarce, the dogs could no longer be supported. When the three boats attempted to cross a channel in stormy seas, the group was separated -- one boat was never heard from again, DeLong and Melville landing at different spots but were unable to find each other. Ultimately, Melville, with a few other crew members, found some Inuit that eventually helped him get back to civilization. He mounted a rescue search but unfortunately it became a mission of recovery instead. DeLong's recovered journal details the horrifying fate of the brave party.
This is one of those stories where one marvels at the limits of human endurance. It really is a fascinating story, I'm surprised I wasn't aware of it earlier.
Sides has done a remarkable job as to expected. He writes with cinematographic quality like a documentary but also has the depths of literature, creative non-fiction at its best. The genre of polar exploring is well worn but Sides keeps things interesting with a sentimental love interest and back-story about James Gordon Bennett, Jr., publisher of the New York Herald, who I'd really like to read a biography about, should it ever be written. Some might complain too much time was spent in the lead up to the Arctic but I found that it helped with the immersion of time and place. This is the first book I've read about the Lena River Delta in Siberia, the largest of its type in the world, so it now holds a place in memory. As well as the Delong Islands which have retained some of the Pleistocene-era flora and fauna, among the last places on Earth with a foot in the Ice Age. I'll never go to these places but I sure felt like I've been, and lived to tell about it.
Reading more like a novel than a work of non-fiction, the narrative born from Sides' thorough examination of primary source material is made compelling through the author's vivid prose. Contemporary accounts, log books, and personal letters were used to tease out the finest details behind the Jeannette's Arctic journey, with the author actually traveling to some of the remotest reaches of the voyage to add a level of authenticity only first-hand experience can provide.
Fans of "true adventure", as well of those with more scholarly interests in Arctic exploration, will both find In the Kingdom of Ice a worthy addition to their bookshelves.