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"Born in Addis Ababa in 1910 and educated in England, from 1945 Wilfred Thesiger spent five years exploring in and around the vast, waterless desert, the 'Empty Quarter' of Arabia. Travelling amongst the Bedu people, he experienced their everyday challenges of hunger and thirst, the trials of long marches beneath the relentless sun, the bitterly cold nights and the constant danger of death if it was discovered he was a Christian 'infidel'. He was the first European to visit most of the region, and just before he left the area the process that would change it forever had begun - the discovery of oil. Thesiger saw Arabian Sands as 'a memorial to a vanished past, a tribute to a once magnificent people'." "This edition includes an introduction by Rory Stewart discussing the dangers of Thesiger's travels, his unconventional personality and his insights into Bedu life."--Jacket.… (more)
User reviews
What he's interested in, to an even greater extent than T.E. Lawrence, are the people who live in the desert, the Bedu (to use Thesiger's preferred term). He rambles on fascinatingly and delightfully for page after page about their politics, their everyday conversation, what they wear, how they eat, how their economy works, the complex ethics of life in a tribal society without central authority, and so on. It's a romantic interest, in more ways than one.
Although the two stunningly beautiful teenage tribesmen who accompany him get the only really lyrical passages of description in the book and feature in some rather self-indulgent photographs, Thesiger does make it pretty clear that, whatever Lawrence may have found (according to Thesiger, Lawrence's companions were decadent town-dwellers, not real desert people), the Bedu would not have put up with any funny business. I think we can believe that it was all strictly platonic: it's clear that what he really loves (even though he moans about it frequently) is the way the desert forces a group of men into total intimacy. It's beautifully done, not kitschy at all: we get to know all of Thesiger's companions as real individuals with real personalities, histories, families, and so on, in a way that the self-obsessed Lawrence doesn't quite manage. Thesiger's well aware what a nuisance he has been to the people who helped him on his travels. By the end of the book it's becoming clear that he's too much of a nuisance: his attempt to get into the mountains of Oman almost starts a civil war, and he realises that he'll have to stop coming to Arabia.
As Thesiger says the most interesting part of his journey was not the trip, but the circumstances. Since "infidals" are not allowed in many parts of "The Sands" he was constantly under-cover, on the run, fighting raiders, jailed, sailing on ships maned by African slaves, dealing with quicksands, starvation, wolves, cold, thirst, etc.. he understates much of it, but the number of close calls and near-death encounters and sheer luck are amazing. As well the Arab culture, mindset and way of life is revealed here in a way I have never read or seen before.
A common theme throughout is how modern industrial culture is destroying the nomadic way of life, how Thesiger saw in those 5 years the first oil exploration companies changing the way of life for people who have not changed in 7000 years or more. Thesiger documented a culture and society at the cusp of its destruction, that no longer exists. Although the book was written in 1959, much of the current world events involving radical Islam can be better understood by understanding where the Arabian, and Muslim, culture used to be not so long ago.
After all of that, he decided to take on a real challenge(ha!) and explore the Empty Quarter of the Arabian Peninsula, an almost waterless sand desert where only two Westerners had travelled before in modern memory. Upon arriving at the more hospitable and populous southern coast of Arabia, he immediately sought out the Bedu tribes who were the only ones who could brave the desert interior, and adapted to their almost inhuman ways remarkably quickly and ably. The book tells the story of his adventures among them, and it’s a tale evocatively, humanely, and at times poignantly told.
It’s a classic adventure/exploration tale, but it’s also very aware that it’s one of the last such tales, and that the door is closing on a world in which such places and cultures exist untouched by the modern world.
The Bedu were a people he had a deep respect for; he never ceased to be amazed by the way they could look at footprints in the sand and tell him who was riding the camels as well as picking up the subtle differences in the sands. The account of his travels across these lands show a harsh way of life that was about to vanish forever with the discovery of huge oilfields below the Arabian peninsular. It was dangerous too; whilst some welcomed him warmly, others considered him an infidel even going as far to threaten his life at times.
Thesiger has written a fascinating account of a landscape and culture of a people that is long gone. The writing has little emotion, instead the author conveys events as they happened, even when he was in the most danger, in an almost clinical way. The way that he immersed himself in the desert way of life gives us an insight that very few other authors have been able to gain since. The region has undergone massive changes since that time and this vanished way of life may never return. A traveller in the modern Arabia would not be able to have access to the deserts in the way that Thesiger did, and this fine book is a worthy tribute to a traditional society. Now I want to read The Marsh Arabs by him.