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In 1957, Ryszard Kapuscinski arrived in Africa to witness the beginning of the end of colonial rule as the first African correspondent of Poland's state newspaper. From the early days of independence in Ghana to the ongoing ethnic genocide in Rwanda, Kapuscinski has crisscrossed vast distances pursuing the swift, and often violent, events that followed liberation. Kapuscinski hitchhikes with caravans, wanders the Sahara with nomads, and lives in the poverty-stricken slums of Nigeria. He wrestles a king cobra to the death and suffers through a bout of malaria. What emerges is an extraordinary depiction of Africa--not as a group of nations or geographic locations--but as a vibrant and frequently joyous montage of peoples, cultures, and encounters. Kapuscinski's trenchant observations, wry analysis and overwhelming humanity paint a remarkable portrait of the continent and its people. His unorthodox approach and profound respect for the people he meets challenge conventional understandings of the modern problems faced by Africa at the dawn of the twenty-first century.… (more)
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To a large extent this is due to his style,
But it’s not just style and composition. It’s also how he combines the impartial eye of the anthropologist with feelings of genuine friendship. His feelings are always present: between the lines, moderately, not disturbing his observations.
In the sixties a moderate optimism prevails. Ok, he reports about political violence in Zanzibar and Nigeria, but that’s nothing compared to later developments. For Kapuscinki himself there is a certain delight: it’s working out, he is actually getting to know the people that intrigued him so much. He even seems to like it when he gets malaria. Ok, it hurts, but at least now he knows what this African decease feels like. Moreover his fysical vulnerability seems to demolish the walls of racism: the Tanzanians around him start to trust this sickly white stranger.
From the seventies onwards things get nastier. Kapuscinski explains the machinery of tribal violence, warlords and bayaye: the rootless ex-villagers who now crowd the cities, without jobs, without possessions, just hanging around hungry.
The low point for me was his account of Liberia in the nineties, where one dictator succeeded the other. The events seemed to be propelled by a sort of mindless, random cruelty. Reading this I felt like the narrator, Kapuscinski, who keeps his feelings implicit, was for the first time really desillusioned and bitter.
The chapters afterwards seemed to try and soften the picture a bit, focussing on village life and religion. But the images of cynical warlords and hopeless child armies were humming in the background.
I do not often read about this kind of misery. I can only take it from a writer I trust, whose intelligence, commitment and taste make it somehow bearable.
That said, I really have to criticise Penguin for not placing the articles in any sort of context. Each one appears simply as a chapter, without any indication of when or in what form each was published - so when, for example, Kapuscinski writes that the civil war in Sudan "is said to have claimed a million lives by now", the reader is clueless as to when that is. I still haven't worked out how the articles are ordered - it could be chronological, or it could be by country or region. It's a mystery!
A brilliant book.
The darkness was so profound that his silhouette ahead of us appeared and disappeared like a phantom. Finally, we sensed boards beneath our feet--it was probably the pier. The old man whispered that we should walk down the steps to the boat. What steps? What boat? p. 94
Earlier, he talks about the locals who go through this kind of stuff often:
Ordinary people here treat political cataclysms--coups d'etat, military takeovers, revolutions, and wars--as phenomena belonging to the realm of nature. They approach them with exactly the same apathetic resignation and fatalism as they would a tempest. One can do nothing about them; one must simply wait them out, hiding under the roof, peering out from time to time to observe the sky--has the lightning ceased, are the clouds departing? If yes, then one can step outside once again and resume that which was momentarily interrupted--work, a journey, sitting in the sun. p. 91
In fact, waiting around seems to be the norm, because the African thinks of time as defined by the event happening whereas the European thinks of time as a separate entity that they must bend their lives to fit. So the African sits around waiting for these events to happen...
What does this dull waiting consist of? People know what to expect; therefore, they try to settle themselves in as comfortably as possible, in the best possible place. Sometimes they lie down, sometimes they sit on the ground, or on a stone, or squat. They stop talking. A waiting group is mute. It emits no sound. The body goes limp, droops shrinks. The muscles relax, the neck stiffens... I have observed for hours on end crowds of people in this state of inanimate waiting, a kind of profound physiological sleep: They do not eat, they do not drink, they do not urinate; they react neither to the mercilessly scorching sun, nor to the aggressive, voracious flies that cover their eyelids and lips. What, in the meantime, is going on inside their heads? p. 18
OK so I'm quoting a lot. So sue me. The fact is, there are so many interesting passages, little surprising bits. The book is full of great observations as well as, every once in a while, panning back to tell of the history of a tribe or of a country. Each country he writes about is given individuality, because there is immense diversity, as he says in the beginning of the book: "Only with the greatest simplification, for the sake of convenience, can we say 'Africa'. In reality, except as a geographical appellation, Africa does not exist."
The best chapters, for me, were the ones on Zanzibar and Rwanda, since they really gave me a context to understand some of what is going on. But all the chapters are good, and they all have different focuses.
What really comes across clearly is that, and this is going to sound obvious, any kind of outside interference, without the kind of understanding of the many different ethnic groups and cultures here, is going to end badly. So often France or England or someone comes in to support one leader over another. It makes me so angry cause I see it in the news even today, just recently with the Ivory Coast elections. Not that there won't be bloodshed or other nastiness if nobody takes sides, (although often it means more high tech weaponry to do the bloodshed with) but it all seems so much more escalated when the world gets involved. And why does everyone think they can get involved in Africa's business anyway? It's so damn presumptuous, to think we know better, when usually we're just supporting our guy because he'd be easier to get our agenda through.
What this book really makes clear is that we don't know better. In fact, we can hardly relate at all to most of what goes on here. How can we relate to the tribe whose whole existence relies on one mango tree? Or a tribe who believes that if your truck breaks down, it's because someone from another tribe cast a spell on it, and not because your truck needed maintenance? Or the tribe who always believes that someone from within the same tribe cast a spell whenever something bad happens, and thus always lives in a state of fear--father afraid of daughter, son afraid of mother? Anyway, there are too many examples to quote.
This is a brilliant book. Absolutely fascinating and informative as well as entertaining - some of the scenes are as dramatic as anything I've read in fiction or non (one decidedly terrifying encounter with a cobra in particular), others are interesting vignettes about life in lands very different from my own. His writing is great (in translation) and the whole thing is a real pleasure to read.
Only one thing prevents me giving this all five stars. Some reading around this book (his wiki page, obituaries from when he died in 2007 etc) - Kapuściński is clearly a controversial figure, partly for reasons that, while important, are not really relevant to this book (his supposed collaboration with the Polish communist government) and perhaps a touch unfair (many African writers seem to dislike his 'European' view of their continent...but he is European, and that's the way he sees it, right or wrong). A significant issue, however, are accusations that some of his stories might be embellished, or some outright invented. None of the stories in this book are mentioned in the accusations I've read, but it is a big proviso in a book posing as reportage. Probably not coincidentally, a lot of the charges seem to have been made since Kapuściński died, and without him here to defend himself, it's hard to give a definitive verdict.
Approached with the proviso in mind that some of the tales might be a little taller in the telling than in real life, however, I really can't recommend this enough - incredibly enjoyable.
"I traveled extensively, avoiding official routes, palaces, important personages, and high-level politics. Instead, I opted to hitch rides on passing trucks, wander with nomades through the desert, be the guest of peasants of the tropical savannah. Their life is endless toil, a torment they endure with astonishing patience and good humor."
The sun and heat ceaselessly beat down upon him as he looks into the nooks and crannies of this immense continent. It is impossible to describe all of Africa and Kapuscinski does not attempt to but his snapshots of individual points expose much. Far and away the best nonfiction I have yet read on Africa. He put himself where the story was and for all the price he paid personally, be it disease or hunger or at the end of a gun, he has produced a book that should be read by all.
Then I read the piece about Liberia, in it there's a
I know non-fiction is never 100% non-fiction, the author's point of view plays a role, etc. But this is too much, it made me wonder what was real and what not of the rest of the pieces, and sadly it will keep my away from the rest of, the once very promising, author's books.
The writer had access to the presidents and generals and ambassadors, but seems much more interested in the ordinary people. He travels rough, sleeps rough and eats rough - but gets to the heart of the ordinary people he
The writing is spare and captivating. He writes in the first person, but without ego - he only appears in his stories as a means of illuminating some aspect of life in Africa.
I was enthralled.
Kapuscinski has charm. He is a romantic. He appreciates how small, everyday acts of kindness can form the basis of a good story. Yet his tendency to
Often one is tempted to shout out – Man! Start reading some books! For instance when he claims that apartheid was invented by Boers in South Africa (correct) and next observes that you can see it anywhere in Africa (not quite correct). How about reading some stuff about Lord Lugard and the British system of dual rule? Ever heard of segregation, British style? How about Mamdani’s book on Citizen and subject?
Yet in mediation for this blatant ignorance, Kapuscinski can be unconventional and charming in taking on old debates. For instance when he is accused of being white and thus guilty of suppressing Africans, robbing their countries blind, his response is – Why, me? ‘You were colonized? We, Poles, were also! For one hundred and thirty years we were a colony of three foreign powers. White ones, too.’. That’s Kapuscinski’s charm and humour. Interpersonally he must have been a joy to interact or work with.
The part of African society he has very well understood is the importance of social relations and exchange of gifts (sometimes of a very different order: something of symbolic value can be exchanged with something of material value). The story about the hole in Onitsha, I like best. Here Kapuscinski reveals something that few people realize: the emergent nature of buzzing activity, and the tendency to help fate a bit, if one can. Basically in the story Kapuscinski creates suspense by telling us about the nature and joy of open markets in Africa, of which the one in Onitsha, Nigeria, is purportedly the biggest. Driving there, Kapuscinski gets stuck in a long traffic jam. He walks ahead to assess what is blocking the (only) road to the market: a big hole, in which trucks and cars get stuck in the mud, and have to be hauled out by groups of young men (for a fee). Around this very hole a hive of activities occurs – street sellers making a buck, young men ganging up to be the next team to make a buck with hauling out cars, news collectors, everybody coalesces around the hole. Kapuscinski assesses the pace, and decides to turn back: it will take him three days to make it through the hole that separates him from this famous market place. He returns but not without catching the butt of the story: the hole moves, every now and then it appears in a different neighbourhood, thus spreading wealth and activity across different parts of town.