A Life on the Edge: Memoirs of Everest and Beyond

by Jim Whittaker

Hardcover, 1999

Status

Available

Call number

GV199.92 .W464

Genres

Collection

Recreation

Publication

Mountaineers Books (1999), 271 pages

Description

There have been many firsts in Jim Whittaker's life. He was the first North American to summit Mount Everest. As the first manager and employee, and ultimately the CEO, of fledgling Recreational Equipment, Inc. (REI), he guided the company through years of record-setting growth. He guided Bobby Kennedy up the newly named Mount Kennedy, helping him to become the first person to summit the Canadian peak. He lead the first and only International Peace Climb, which put climbers from the U.S., Russia, and China on the summit of Everest in the name of world peace.Contrary to what many people might think, Jim Whittaker's career neither began nor culminated with that famous first ascent of Everest. His achievement on Everest and his many successes before and after are, rather, the natural outcome of a life driven by a passion for outdoor adventure combined with strong leadership qualities and a commitment to making a difference. In A Life on the Edge, readers will discover a true hero -- someone who inspires others to seek challenges in their own lives.… (more)

User reviews

LibraryThing member dickcraig

The more famous of the two brothers, Jim talks about his mountaineering adventures. It has a lot of Everest climbing, which I enjoy.

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LibraryThing member amerynth

Jim Whittaker is certainly not a great author but I enjoyed his memoir "A Life on the Edge: Memoirs of Everest and Beyond" anyway.

I've read far better books about his K2 expeditions (Galen Rowell's excellent "In the Throne Room of the Mountain Gods" and Rick Ridgeway's "The Last Step".... both are

phenomenal) but it was interesting to finally hear about the expeditions from Whittaker, who was their leader. He glosses over some of the conflicts that are so central to the other books, but he does mention them and give his take.

The most fascinating parts of the book come at the beginning as he details how he got into climbing and his ascent of Everest. Overall, this is a solid book (with great pictures to boot) but certainly not a standout amongst mountaineering books.

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LibraryThing member breic

Whittaker has had an interesting life, and he lays it out engagingly. But this memoir lacks that extra spark that it would need for me to recommend it beyond his family and friends. It also lacks much self awareness. It is hard to read his complaints, especially about money, without an

acknowledgement of his incredible luck and privilege. (He is outraged when someone calls him out for abusing his privileges after he calls a senator for a favor. He is scandalized when he is held partially responsible for a fraudulent company that he was responsible for but failed to supervise.) His environmental awareness is remarkably low (no mention of climate change, no thoughts about his own environmental impact, from flying all over to world, having five kids, building mansions in unspoiled wilderness, etc.). It is strange that a sperm collection is given as much attention as most of his relationships. I think there must be much more to Whittaker's life and personality than is conveyed here.

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LibraryThing member JBGUSA

Overall, a pretty good book from someone who's not a professional writer. the book covers in gripping detail many of his mountain ascents, such as Rainier, Everest, K-2 and a return to Everest. Woven in is the story of the early days of REI, which he helped found.

As usual I have quibbles. While he

goes through the motions of blaming his divorce from his wife, his split with REI and a post-REI business failure on himself, he backhandedly shifts the blame to others. In the case of his business fialure this seems justified; his partner was a thief. In the others I cannot believe that he didn't have more of a role.

With many autobiographies I sense puffery and self-justification. That isn't quite asa prevalent here. Jim Whittaker overall seems like a giant of a man and the book is well worth reading..

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