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Many know rhubarb thanks to a shockingly tart introduction in childhood, likely countered by dipping the stalk in sugar, or as simply "the pie plant," a worthy component of custard or mixed-fruit pastries. Why not expand the concept beyond those idyllic, long ago summer days? A s ingredients and techniques have evolved to suit modern tastes, so too have opportunities to showcase this oft-overlooked vegetable. In Rhubarb Renaissance, seasoned writer and baker Kim Ode invites us to join her in celebrating rhubarb as one of the great flavors of horticulture. In a lively re-introduction to this versatile vegetable, more than fifty creative recipes highlight uses from savory to sweet. Notes on rhubarb's historic medicinal uses, preservation advice, and kitchen basics including foundation recipes for roasted rhubarb set up a selection of appetizers, entrées, desserts, and breads. Expand your repertoire with clever concoctions such as Rhubarb Corn Fritters, Turkey Tenderloins with RhubarBQ Sauce, Spiced Couscous with Rhubarb and Figs, or Chop-Chop Sweet and Sour Stir-fry. More familiar applications are offered with a slight--and tasty--twist: Salted Caramel Rhubapple Pie, for example, or Zucchini-Rhubarb Bread. With these delectable combinations and more, Rhubarb Renaissance reinforces memories of grandma's kitchen but also inspires delight in the stalk's place at the contemporary table. Kim Ode is a feature writer for the Star Tribune's Source section and the author of Baking with the St. Paul Bread Club.… (more)
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So I was excited to see what culinary ideas would be presented in this entry in the Minnesota Historical Society’s Northern Plate cookbook series, celebrating local ingredients. Writer Kim Ode sketches out a bit of the history of rhubarb, traditionally known locally simply as “pie plant” from its roots in Asia to its legal reclassification as a fruit in the US by 1947 before discussing some ways to use it. Tips for freezing this seasonal treat for winter months, and a couple of foundation recipes for savory and sweet roasted rhubarb for use in various recipes listed later are particularly useful.
All in all, though, while these base recipes have a lot of promise they only really show up in a handful of the listed recipes, which I found a little uninspiring. Rhubarb in quesadillas, for instance. Sure, sounds good, but nothing groundbreaking. I also must admit I found a few of the recipes to be a little culturally appropriative in their titles as well, including such things as “shrimp in kimonos” and “chop-chop” stir fry. Focusing on rhubarb’s use in US Midwestern cuisine seems to be where the cookbook’s strengths really lie. While I may not ever try it, for instance, the recipe for rhubarb wine with its pounds and pounds of sugar and months fermenting in a bucket was quite an interesting idea, for instance.
In conclusion, I guess I’ll have to keep up my search for rhubarb inspirations.